
Hangzhou · Zhejiang
Hangzhou Anthology
Beside West Lake, the old capital of the Southern Song. No itineraries here — only lake and hills, remembered.
Begin with the lake, walk toward the city
Hangzhou is a city of the lake. West Lake has hills on three sides and the city on the fourth — the hills are not steep but graceful, the water not deep but broad. The lake is Hangzhou’s eyes and brows, and also its measure: however large the city, that still is the lake.
Read this volume along the lake. Begin with the lake itself — the Su and Bai causeways, the three pools mirroring the moon; then read the hills around it, and the tea slopes in the hills; then walk toward the city: Lingyin, Xixi, the canal, the Qiantang, Wu Hill; then read the human world the lake has raised: Longjing, silk, craft, the dishes of Hangzhou; and last, read the city’s history: Liangzhu’s earlier city, the founding of Wuyue, the Southern Song’s borrowed peace, and the human world after the capital was laid down.
This site sells no tickets and pushes no routes. If, after reading, a lake and a city take root in your mind, it has done its work.

Open the volumes
“West Lake compares to the fair Xizi — light or heavy make-up, always becoming.”
— Su Shi, “Drinking on the Lake, First Clear then Rain”



